PERFORMA BIOMOR DAN MORDAN LOGAM TERHADAP KARAKTER WARNA DAN KETAHANAN LUNTUR EKSTRAK DAUN NANGKA (Artocarpus Heterophyllus L.) PADA KAIN POLIESTER ROBERTO CAVALI
Abstract
This study aims to compare the performance of biomordants and metallic mordants in the dyeing of Roberto Cavali fabric using jackfruit leaf (Artocarpus heterophyllus L.) extract, focusing on color characteristics (hue) and colorfastness to washing. This research is motivated by the use of natural dyes as a more environmentally friendly alternative for textile dyeing and the utilization of fallen jackfruit leaves as a source of natural colorants. The study compares biomordants, namely vinegar, citric acid, and lactic acid, with metallic mordants, namely alum, ferrous sulfate, and slaked lime, using the post-mordanting technique. The research employed an experimental method with a quantitative approach. Data were collected through panelists’ assessments of color characteristics (hue) and colorfastness-to-washing tests based on the standards SNI ISO 105-C08:2010, 2017 edition, SNI ISO 105-A03:2019, and SNI ISO 105-C06:2020. Color characteristics were identified using the Colorblind Assistant application based on color names, RGB values, and hexadecimal codes. Data analysis was conducted using the Friedman test for k related samples with the assistance of statistical software. The results showed that different types of mordants produced variations in color characteristics (hue). Jackfruit leaf extract predominantly produced brown, cream, and soft pink shades. Biomordants tended to produce softer and lighter colors, whereas metallic mordants produced more intense and distinctive colors. The ferrous sulfate treatment produced darker colors with brownish-gray undertones, alum produced more uniform brown shades, while slaked lime resulted in brighter reddish-cream shades. The Friedman test results indicated a statistically significant effect of mordant type on colorfastness to washing, with a chi-square value of 11.143, df = 2, and a significance level of p = 0.004 (p < 0.05). These findings indicate significant differences in colorfastness-to-washing results among the treatments. Based on these findings, it can be concluded that both biomordants and metallic mordants can be used in the dyeing of Roberto Cavali fabric with jackfruit leaf extract, producing different color characteristics. Biomordants have the potential to serve as more environmentally friendly alternatives for enhancing dye fixation, whereas metallic mordants can produce more intense and distinctive color variations with good colorfastness.
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